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When it comes to skincare ingredients, there are very few that are as hyped-up as vitamin C. It brightens, fades, tightens, it probably files your taxes on time. With so much information out there–maybe too much—it can feel overwhelming, trying to figure out what’s true and false about vitamin C . Should you choose a formula with clinical vitamin C or vitamin C derived from natural extracts? Should you go for a 5% formula, or 20%? Are you even a good candidate for this ingredient? I turned to Dr. Karan Lal, dermatologist and owner of some seriously glowing skin, to answer the most pressing questions about vitamin C serums.
What Is Vitamin C?
“Vitamin C is a topical antioxidant that has many beneficial properties. It reduces hyperpigmentation, stimulates collagen production, and acts as a cofactor for many cellular processes to maintain natural glowing skin,” says Dr. Lal. “Most of all, it scavenges free radicals that we come in contact with every single day.”
Is Vitamin C Safe?
“[Vitamin C] is a powerhouse ingredient but it is also one that is not universal in its efficacy,” says Dr. Lal. “Vitamin C can be irritating at concentrations at or above 20%, so ideally pick a 10% concentration.” In addition, Lal say to make sure you look for L-ascorbic acid which is the true active form of vitamin C. “Some products have vitamin C derivatives and claim to be a certain percentage but after application are actually not as strong.”
“Vitamin C is photolabile which means it gets degraded with exposure to sunlight. It also degrades upon exposure to air. For this reason, keep your vitamin C product in a dark place and make sure you tightly close your bottle to prevent breakdown of the product.”
Who Should Use A Vitamin C Serum?
“In truth everyone should be using a vitamin C product due to its reparative properties,” says Dr. Lal. “However, those with dry sensitive skin, or acne, should be careful and start out slow to prevent breakouts.” Lal also notes that serums are lightweight and usually combined with agents that allow for better penetration, whereas creams and lotions are meant to stay on top of the skin and work superficially. “Vitamin C serums take at least 12 weeks to take effect because it takes time for new cells to regenerate and for pigment to start clearing,” she adds.
To get the glowing skin of our dreams, here are 24 vitamin C serums we love.
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